John Smedley blends heritage and high‑tech to survive Britain’s shrinking fashion sector
The 18th‑century knitwear maker is staying afloat by mixing royal‑backed tradition with modern machinery and celebrity collaborations.
Heritage meets high‑tech at the world’s oldest knitwear factory
In the Peak District of Derbyshire, a maze of buildings—one dating back to 1784—houses the John Smedley factory, the longest‑running garment plant in the world. The site blends Japanese knitting technology with skilled artisans like Tina, a 38‑year veteran who cuts necklines using chalk, a semi‑circular guide and sharp scissors.
Full‑cycle production in a wooded valley
All steps of garment creation occur on‑site: cotton yarn is dyed, knits are washed, steamed and packed in the valley near Matlock. Water is drawn from a brook beneath the factory, and steam comes from both historic boilers and newer silver‑finished units.
Scale and output
Weekly production reaches 4,500 items, sold under the John Smedley name and on contract for luxury brands such as Lanvin, Margaret Howell and Daks.
The company employs a workforce of about 230 at the Peak District site, with additional finishing at a smaller Armthorpe, South Yorkshire factory.
Investment and modernisation
In 2024 the firm spent more than £4 million on new machinery to boost efficiency and expand its style range. Managing director Jess McGuire‑Dudley, 41, notes that the family owners are “open to change” and will embrace innovations that fit the brand’s ethos.
Royal endorsement and market challenges
John Smedley holds royal warrants from King Charles and Queen Camilla. Despite these accolades, the luxury market has been tough, and the company relies on fresh designs, celebrity partnerships and the recent equipment upgrade to stay competitive.
UK fashion manufacturing in decline
According to the Office for National Statistics, the UK now has 3,515 clothing manufacturers, down 315 from ten years ago, and the sector employs just 15,000 people, a sharp drop from 173,000 three decades earlier. Most manufacturers closed as brands shifted production to cheaper overseas locations.
John Smedley’s ability to blend centuries‑old craft with modern technology illustrates one path forward for British fashion in a market that has largely moved offshore.
