A Three‑Day Food‑Focused Tour of Prince Edward Island
A couple’s whirlwind itinerary showcases PEI’s seafood, farm fare and a stop at the PEI International Shellfish Festival.
Arrival and Base of Operations
The couple rented a car and stationed themselves in Charlottetown, the island’s main hub, after arriving late on a Thursday afternoon.
Day One: Charlottetown Eats
First stop was Slaymaker & Nichols, a gastropub and inn that evokes an old‑fashioned supper club. The narrator tried a watermelon mule—vodka infused with hibiscus and pickled watermelon—alongside a creamy lobster dip with tomatoes and harissa, and buttery shrimp pil pil with asparagus spears.
Later, a modest lobster roll from a nearby spot was described as “pretty mediocre.” The evening continued at Reddins, a third‑floor speakeasy that once served as a pharmacy during Prohibition. Bartender AB recommended the Pink Canary, a cocktail of vodka, rose, lychee, citrus and rosé bubbles presented in a small bathtub.
Entry required a secret password, obtainable online or from the hostess next door.
Rainy Morning and a Tiny Seaside Town
In the rain, the pair headed to Victoria Row for breakfast at Receiver Coffee, ordering a strong cup of coffee, Earl Grey cream tea and a “Ham Slam” – a cheddar biscuit topped with a runny fried egg, Black Forest ham, Swiss cheese and Dijon mayo.
They then drove to Victoria‑by‑the‑Sea, a town under a square mile with fewer than 200 residents. At Landmark Oyster House, set in an old general store, they sampled Raspberry Point oysters served with lemon and freshly grated horseradish, and a scallop dog featuring buttery scallops, bacon jam, red pepper aioli and pickled shallots on a toasted bun, accompanied by an eggy potato salad.
A visit to Island Chocolates introduced a haskap truffle—milk chocolate shell filled with a berry that tastes between blueberry and raspberry.
PEI International Shellfish Festival
When the sun returned, the festival provided a “substantial fix of oysters and clams.” Lobster rolls were described as filled with plain lobster meat, drenched in melted butter from a large vat.
Day Two: French River Dinner
For dinner, the duo followed recommendations to North Shore Canteen in French River, a venue frequented by chefs from the shellfish festival. The menu, changing with the day’s catch, featured local halibut, striped bass, shellfish, beef and potatoes.
They started with a generous portion of local beef tartare, seasoned with capers, roasted garlic and freshly grated Parmesan, served with Covered Bridge potato chips. The main course was a hanger steak with chimichurri and black garlic. Dessert was a parsnip cake drizzled with caramel sauce.
Overall Impressions
Across three days, the travelers experienced PEI’s “fresh produce, pristine seafood, gorgeous views and warm conviviality,” sampling oysters, lobster, beef and locally made ice cream while driving along the island’s famed red‑dirt roads.
